Gently scented with orange blossom water and aniseed, pan de muerto is a must on Dia de los Muertos. To Mexicans this sweet, enriched bread is like hot cross buns on Good Friday to the British. Each bun is topped with a dough cross mounted with a dough ball to represent the skull and bones of the dead. Sometimes they are decorated with sesame seeds to symbolise tears but sugar is also used with pink sugar crystals being particularly popular. In Oaxaca the pan de muerto has a slightly different form as explained by Maite Gomez-Rejón in this clip from our interview:
This is my version of this festive treat. There is a little bit of faffing required to make the skull and cross bone decoration, hence the reason I have opted for six large buns rather than a eight or more incredibly fiddly smaller buns.
You can find out more about Mexico’s pan de muerto in this episode of the Hungry for History podcast.
Ingredients
150g/5oz unsalted butter,
450g/1lb plain flour
2 x 7g/¼oz fast action yeast
100g/4oz caster sugar plus 2 tbsp
1 tsp ground anise
½ tsp ground cinnamon (or more anise if you really like that flavour) (optional)
1 tsp salt
Finely grated zest of 1 large orange
150ml/5 fl.oz. milk plus 2 tbsp and extra for brushing
2 medium eggs, beaten
2 tsp orange blossom water
Sesame seeds, granulated sugar or pink sugar crystals for decoration
Method
Gently melt the butter. Pour into a large jug then allow to cool slightly.
Place the flour, yeast, 100g/4oz caster sugar, ground anise and cinnamon (if using), salt and orange zest into the bowl of a free standing food mixer.
Add the milk, the eggs and orange blossom water to the cooled butter. With the motor running slowly add the liquid ingredients to the dry until a soft, sticky dough is formed. Knead on a low speed for 8-10 minutes. Alternatively place the dry ingredients in a large bowl then add the combined wet ingredients as instructed above. Mix together to form a sticky dough then knead for 8-10 minutes on a lightly oiled board.
Cover the bowl with foil or film and prove overnight in the fridge.
The following day, knead the dough again and divide into eight pieces.
Shape six pieces into balls and place on a lined or greased baking sheet.
Divide one of the remaining pieces into six equal pieces. Roll these into six small balls. These will be the ‘skulls’.
Divide the remaining piece of dough into six equal pieces. Cut one of these pieces in two. Roll each piece with your hands to form an 8cm/3” ‘pencil’ shape then slightly flatten with the palm of your hand. Repeat with the remaining five pieces of dough. You should end up with 12 slightly flattened pieces of dough, destined to be the ‘bones'.
Lightly brush the surface of the larger dough balls with milk. Drape the strips of dough across the top to form a cross. Brush the base of one of the ‘skulls’ with a little milk then place the smaller dough ball in the centre of the cross pressing down gently with the palm of your hand on top of the ‘skull’ to help it adhere (it will look slightly squashed but this is fine). Repeat with the remaining large balls of dough. (Truth be told, one of two of my skulls invariably topple off while the buns are proving or baking resulting in headless buns but it obviously doesn’t affect the flavour.)
Lightly cover with a cloth and leave to prove in a warm place for 40-60 minutes. Meanwhile preheat the oven to 200℃/180℃ Fan.
After the buns have doubled in size, lightly brush the rolls with a little more milk. If you are using sesame seeds to decorate the buns you can sprinkle these on now. Bake the pan de muertos for 15-20 minutes or until puffy and nicely browned. While the loaves are baking dissolve 2 tbsp caster sugar in 2 tbsp milk for the glaze (I usually zap it in the microwave for 10 second bursts to help the process). Brush the sweet milk over the hot buns then sprinkle with granulated sugar or sugar crystals (I do this even when I’ve used sesame seeds because who doesn’t love a sweet, sticky bun, right?)
Personally I love them just as they are but of course you can split and butter them or serve them with jam and cream. They are naturally delicious when dunked in a cup of hot chocolate!
Music (Mexican Dia De Muertos Mariachi composed by Brais González) produced by Blue Panda, sourced via Pond5.