If you listened to last week’s episode you can probably tell that I am a huge fan of this (almost) forgotten spice.You can read more about the historical uses of long pepper over at Monk’s Medieval Cuisine. It’s available from Steenbergs and other independent spice companies so here are a couple of modern recipes to get you started.
Chicken with Long Pepper and Garlic
This dish is adapted from a Madhur Jaffrey recipe in Far Eastern Cookery (1989) for Kai Tod Kratium Priktai. The original used black pepper but long pepper works well here too.
Long pepper ‘catkins’ vary in size but around 3-4 large catkins will grind down to a generous teaspoon.
Ingredients – serves 3 – 4 if part of a multi dish meal
2 x large skinless and boneless chicken breasts (about 500g/1lb2oz)
4 large cloves garlic, peeled and grated
2 tsp coarsely ground long pepper
1½ tbsp fish sauce
1 tsp caster sugar
1 large red bell pepper
2 tbsp vegetable oil
Small handful Thai basil, shredded
Juice ½ lime
Method
Finely slice the chicken breast. Place in a bowl with the grated garlic, ground long pepper, fish sauce and caster sugar. Mix thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
Remove the seeds and stalk from the pepper. Cut the pepper into four pieces then thinly slice each quarter.
Heat the oil in a large wok over a medium to high heat. Stir fry the chicken until it is almost cooked then add the sliced pepper. Continue to stir fry for a few minutes more then stir in the shredded basil and lime juice.
Serve with rice (fried or steamed as you prefer) and stir fried greens.
Peppered Pineapple with Caramel Syrup & Rum Cream
This is adapted from Christine McFadden’s wonderful book Pepper (2012)
Ingredients - Serves 6
1 large, ripe pineapple
100g/4oz caster sugar
Juice and zest 1 lime
Good pinch of sea salt flakes
½-1 tsp coarsely ground long pepper (2-4 catkins)
2 tbsp water
75g/30z raisins (optional)
300ml/½ pt double cream
3 tbsp icing sugar, sifted
3 tbsp dark rum
Method
Cut the pineapple in half lengthwise, stalk an all. Use a sharp knife to cut around the flesh and extract it from the outer skin, leaving a pineapple shaped bowl. Chop the flesh into large chunks, discarding the tougher core. If you are not fussed about using the pineapple skin for decoration, cut the fruit into quarters, then the quarters into large chunks (removing the core as before). Place the chunks in a large bowl.
Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the sugar, the lime juice and zest, salt and long pepper. Stir well then tip the pineapple into a sieve suspended over another bowl. Leave for about 30 minutes after which time the pineapple will have exuded some juice, which you need to set aside. You’ll need at least 4 tablespoons for this recipe (a little more is fine). If the pineapple hasn’t provided this, make up the difference with water or more lime juice. Return the pineapple to the bowl minus the juice.
Tip the rest of the caster sugar into a saucepan. Add the water then shake the pan to cover the sugar. Heat over medium heat to dissolve the sugar, then increase the temperature. As the sugar begins to turn brown gently tilt the pan carefully to move it around. Once the sugar has turned a uniform deep caramel colour remove it from the heat.
Immediately add the pineapple liquid but be careful as it will spit. Stir vigorously then pour over the peppered pineapple. Don’t worry if the caramel seems thick at this stage. More juice will be extracted from the pineapple as it marinates. Stir in the raisins* if using, cover and refrigerate for at least an hour or two or ideally overnight before serving.
To make the rum cream, combine the double cream, icing sugar and rum in a bowl. Beat with an electric whisk to the soft peak stage. Serve alongside the peppered pineapple.
* Sometimes I stir the raising through the cream instead of the pineapple to create a rum and raisin cream.
I absolutely love long pepper!